Film Making Legends Capture Kings of Pastry
Written by Jacob Appet
On Saturday afternoon, DOC NYC presented D.A. Pennebaker and Chris Hegedus’ 2009 documentary Kings of Pastry, an exclusive look into one of the most elite cooking competitions in the world. Being crowned a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (best craftsman in France) is the absolute top honor that can be achievable by a French Pastry Chef.
Jacquy Pfeiffer and Sebastian Canonne have opened up a successful French pastry school in Chicago—the first of it’s kind. The film follows Jacquy as he returns to France to prepare for the 2007 M.O.F. championship. Sebastian, who bears the special collar worn only by those that have earned the M.O.F distinction, serves as Jacquy’s coach during his training.
The competition enlists the most renowned pastry chefs in France to judge 16 aspiring M.O.Fs over the course of a grueling three-day cooking marathon. Winning requires not only exquisite technique, but also world-class speed and endurance. Of all the delectable pastries featured in the film, the chefs’ ornate three-foot-high sugar sculptures particularly demonstrate the level of mastery required to participate. And every year, inevitably at least one of these magnificent creations will shatter, instantly ruining the chances for one chef to achieve his ultimate dream.
Pennebaker and Hegedus were present for a Q&A after the screening in which they revealed fascinating behind-the-scene details from the film. The team was convinced to make a documentary when they met with Jacquy and he spoke at length of incessant nightmares prior to the competition.
Pennebaker recounted that they originally did not know how big of a deal it was for the M.O.F committee to allow a camera crew to film the proceedings.
“Each day they would vote whether we should come back the next day…they told us if you accidentally cause one of them to break their statues, they’ll kill you.”
Added Hegedus, “On the third day, they actually drew a little square on the ground and told us ‘that’s where you have to stand.’”
Pennebaker and Hegedus also spoke to their continued friendship with Jacquy, who once brought a reel of film made entirely of chocolate to one of the movie’s festival screenings complete with sprockets. “What I think emerges…is his character,” Pennebaker said, “which is a hard thing to find in film.”
For more about Kings of Pastry, visit the film page on the DOC NYC website.
Jacob Appet is a writer and filmmaker based in New York City. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram @jacobappet